Mandoline Your Way to a Scrumptious and Elegant Broccolini Salad
Our neighbor Maureen was in our kitchen one day as I was
preparing dinner. As I gathered together
components for a Thomas Keller broccolini salad, I saw her looking at my thinly
shaved mushroom and red onion with interest.
She mused, more to herself than to me or Will, “Now, that’s a good idea…” That was when I realized that she was
fascinated by the fact that we actually used our mandoline. And she’s right to be fascinated.
Many years ago, in the first flush of being able to afford
specialty items for the kitchen, we purchased our first mandoline. (Yes, we have more than one…) It was a stainless steel French-made
mandoline, a brand I saw a TV chef using for one of her shows. Though merely a piece of kitchen equipment,
its packaging was reminiscent of an assassination film—with a hard black
plastic case that resembled a rifle carrier more than something that was
supposed to slice cucumbers.
Because of the super sharp blade and the jutting spikes
intended for julienning, this mandoline announced itself as a serious piece of
machinery, something that required a black plastic hand-protector to use. But that was the whole problem. We couldn’t really use this mandoline! Partly,
it was our fault for trying to julienne sweet potatoes on our first
attempt. Perhaps the sweet potato’s
gnarled rooty texture didn’t let the Miu shine.
It was hard going to yield even a few good strips, and then we hand-cut
the rest of the sweet potato after the awkward hand-protector kept slipping out of our
hands—and, yes, exposing those same hands to those medieval torture (sorry,
julienning) spikes.
So the mandoline sat in its mysterious black case, on the
top shelf in the kitchen where we relegate all items we will never really use
but are afraid to throw out or donate—lest we later regret our rashness. Then I surfed the web to see if I could find
a mandoline we could actually use. I
found on Amazon an inexpensive but very well rated simple—no julienning—Kyocera
with a ceramic blade. As I was checking
out the reviews, I noticed that very helpful (“Frequently purchased together”)
note that alerted me to yet another product I could consider. It was a “cut-protection glove.” Reading reviews for the glove, I realized
that we were not the only ones fearful of making ground meat out of our hands
by using mandolines. I ordered both and
never looked back.
Will is actually even more enamored of the glove than he is
of the mandoline since it was the fear factor that kept him away from using our
expensive Miu. We still have the
stainless steel contraption, but I’m not sure when we will decide that we will
get the step-ladder out to get it down from the top shelf. After all, the Kyocera is so easy to use, and
so light. With its thin profile, it can
even fit in one of the sliding drawers in the kitchen and not take up too much
space. It does a lovely job of cutting
through delicate produce like a mushroom and still ensure beautiful and whole, super-thin slices.
If you have a mandoline, this Thomas Keller salad from his Ad Hoc at Home cookbook can be made in
no time. I slightly modify the original
recipe to use items we usually have around, and you are welcome to change as
you see fit. All the ingredients you
need are bold-faced in this streamlined recipe.
Ad Hoc Broccolini
Salad with Fresh Mozzarella
Step 1: Blanche the broccolini
After bringing a pot of salted water to a boil, throw in 1 lb of trimmed broccolini and cook for
4-5 minutes (no longer). Remove, drain,
and place in an ice bath. Then drain
again and place on a plate.
Step 2: Mandoline mushrooms and onion
Trim 2 large cremini
or white mushrooms and then mandoline into thin slices. Mandoline ½ a small red onion. Place
in separate small bowls.
Step 3: Make the dressing
Combine 2 T extra
virgin olive oil, 2 T walnut oil, and 2 T sherry vinegar. Sprinkle freshly ground black pepper and salt
to taste, and whisk again.
Step 4: Dress everything
Drizzle a bit of the dressing over each of the plates or
bowls containing broccolini, mushrooms, and onions. Place broccolini on the bottom of a wide
plate, then pile the dressed mushrooms and onions in a pile. In a small bowl, place a fresh and very soft buffalo mozzarella or a burrata, cut a
small cross on top of the cheese with a sharp paring knife, and then drizzle 1
T extra virgin olive oil on top and around the cheese. Sprinkle salt and pepper. Place a few castelvetrano olives on top of the salad.
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